Sailing the Sporades - 7 days across the Aegean from Volos marina

Right at the entrance of the Pagasetic Gulf you arrive at Palaio Trikeri, a small island free of cars and mass tourism. Idyllic today, Trikeri also carries a darker past - during and after the Greek Civil War it served as a camp for political prisoners.

On the island's hilltop sits Panagía Evangelístria, a monastery said to have been built after a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary was found in the roots of an olive tree.

Agia Kyriaki is a fishing village across from Trikeri - here we recommend lunch at our friend Kostas' tavern To Karnagio: the day's fresh catch and the best Greek meze. The boat ties up right in front of the restaurant - the sea is the backdrop.

An ideal first stop to slow down and shift into island time.

Skiathos brings golden sand beaches and the scent of pines, plus the famous 'low landing' experience at the airport - planes touch down right above the road and beach, a sight that gets retold for years.

For a swim day, head to Koukounaries Beach, the island's most famous: a long stretch of fine sand, shallow water and pine forest in the background.

For the evening, we suggest a night out in Skiathos town - great music, cocktails and a relaxed atmosphere after a day on the water.

Skopelos town is a maze of narrow lanes, white-washed houses and blue-and-white windows - a classic Aegean postcard.

Pines above turquoise rocks around Cape Amarandos form the backdrop of the 'Honey, Honey' scene from *Mamma Mia* - the spot is now almost a synonym for Mamma Mia moments on Skopelos.

The emotional 'The Winner Takes It All' scene was filmed on the rock and path leading to the chapel of Agios Ioannis Kastri - the chapel itself is the film's wedding location.

Alonissos is the island of zen energy - perfect for quiet bays and evening sunsets in the Old Town (Hora).

It's the heart of the National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades - the largest protected marine area in Europe. These waters are home to the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus), one of the most endangered species in the world, and with a bit of luck you'll cross paths with dolphins.

For the best sunset, count on rooftop bars in Hora and patisseries like Χαγιάτι with views over the entire island.

If you want to include Skyros on this route, arrange it with the skipper in advance - it's the most distant island on the tour, but worth every mile.

Skyros has preserved an authentic folk and craft tradition: museums, hand-woven rugs, wood carving and customs you won't find anywhere else.